Introduction: Swing Wobble Wads Bicycle BSA Shot-Gun Break a Peg Horror Storey Horcrux Pedal.

saw a pic sol the side by side day i made the frame. i took my camera with ME so i could share the experience with you, subsequent research occurred patc writing this up.

its a goodish project because you get a great deal of bang for your clip,effort and money. the components do non have to be great quality as its never going to be a high performance machine with exacting tolerances. its to a greater extent about the aesthetic ,and with resourcefulness and imagination a maker will William Tell their story impartation a vocabulary of their soul within the machine.

this is a vid of dad having a go thereon. i promise it is ridable i will add another video.

heres a video derailer oculus sight vid if it riding

Step 1: Parts & Materials

    Frame and forks x2 sets, helps if fork steerer fits prissy in seat tube. mine is 1 edge , older size commonly in use on old bmx's kiddie bikes and rattling cruddy catalogue/superstore bikes.

    • frame 1 shockwave xt675 26er anatomy, with intemperately modified suspension forks(had to replace forks imputable tricksy geometry) £0 acknowledged aside neighbor destined for tip
    • renewal standard forks £15
    • frame 2 bsa westcoast 26er frame and rigid forks.£7.50 ebay topical anaestheti firm headroom firm
    • cranks seatpost handlebars+prow breaks+levers gears +levers cables hubs+spokes freewheel/cassette.......bell+reflectors, all salvaged from other bike restoration attempts.£0
    • saddle,im finicky so bought a comfy one for my ageing bum £10
    • concatenation, a thumbed chain non lonesome increases wear to cogs (they stretch) they've made many a bike owners abandon usable machines, a basic chain from ebay £4
    • pedals and chrome wheel rims+tyres tubes from an early 90s ladies mountain wheel.£0 gift from cousin-german in law
    • copper ease, £6(just like grease but has improved adenoidal temperature tolerances)halfords or car parts shop.
    • wd40 spray oil.
    • degreaseing agent ,thinners ,alkyl radical sprit ,rubbing alcohol, petrol.vodka.
    • rags wallpaper towel sleeve hampster
    • abrasive paper ,
    • paint car shop atomizer cans are good, using a estimable clearcoat makes a big difference. poundland (dollar store) spray rouge is ok the colour choice and odor are non good.
    • car body filler (bondo)

    Step 2: Tools and Facilities

    divided to clear up. *(yours may differ.)

    facilities

    • a flat surface,sack resistant...compressed air...torch/heat gun...paint spray gun...extractor sports fan...warmish dry surround

    to make the frame

    • Hacksaw...bench vice...

      telegram thicket...file....angle grinder...

      hammer(ball type and rubber type)
    • Wielder, for this type of shriveled metal wielding i would urge fueled,gas mig or brazing, iv lonesome got gassless mig so its non pretty,(bondo it after)

    to make up a motorcycle,

    • spanners large small adaptable, plyers...pipe grips (headset)...allen keys....screwdrivers...tippy centrifuge,..chain splitter/joiner,..spoke key,...cassette/freewheel tool around...roll jig,...wire cutters, file/bench hoagie

    Footfall 3: Cut Frame 1

    this frame has the plum duff bottom bracket, soh im only using the big top tube and decoy, id recommend departure a little more of the pour down tube-shaped structure(diagonal one) on the piece your using to give more ambit for nonrepresentational adjustments.

    a remark connected geometry, seems like anything goes, so plump for information technology , iv added some images of other swing bikes(source google) to inspire your creativity. iv picked a selection that show the variation in pivot angles, the added spring to the tail end pivot is unputdownable.

    Dance step 4: Cutting Frame 2

    im victimization most of this skeletal system, the seat tube is a sainted fit for 1 inch steerer tube, the bottomland bracket is ok, and i like the bsa decals on information technology. this frame is smaller than the other so i try to minimize wastage by cutting stuffy to the seat tube ,and by trying to keep the cut right.

    Step 5: Garnish Pipe Ends

    present a compressed surface helps, you wish to keep the head tubes paralleled or rampant as your riding, or maybe you dont and feel the earge to have them perpendicular.

    the idea beingness to get every last the pipe ends to meet with a bit convergence (or as much as manageable) to make wielding strong connections possible.

    Step 6: Teardrop Shaped Pipage Put out

    • i found that a teardrop attribute tube though bigger in diam than the copulative tube did non allow it inside,
    • it needed to be rounder, so i gently squashed it in a vice.
    • sort of round with a little of a flat spot is easy to create mostly round with a chunk hammer than stressful to make a pointy pipe round with the same hammer.

    Step 7: Start Wielding

    • i didnt want rough surfaces made by angle grinding polish off paint, and i was certainly ot going to drop time sanding or using chemicals.
    • i set down many generous tack wields in, flames and sess....
    • the heat softens the paint in the area ,a quick wire brush clears it unsatisfactory
    • and so its ready for the closing pass of wield.

    Step 8: Power Too Cut This Bit Off Now

    later i added wields on the seams inside to strengthen information technology. i could wealthy person tried to cut the remaining tube off , instead i covered the inside fix with a little tape and full the pipe end with body filler.

    Step 9: Middle Pivot

    • select a fork with a steerer thirster than would be normally live used in the soma providing the middle pivot. as the protruding thread will be accustomed seize to the rear end triangle section
    • you will probably take over to give the headset pinnacle nut a charge or trim on the top edge so information technology passed over the thread.
    • new-mown the fork blazonry off.
    • grind the factory welds remove thusly its round once more,
    • check it fits in the seat tube of the rear triangle section.

    Step 10: Cut to Rear Triangle.

      choose between serviceability or clean frame lines, i chose the latter. set the parts on the floor to get an idea where everything is going to snuff it.

      • dont cut into out overmuch, because you can easy foreshorten more.
      • the frame volition bend to allow more space during instalmen

      locating

      • too low and your pedals will hit frame
      • too overlooking and you will non have anywhere to sit.

      Step 11: Heart Pin Prep and Final Service.

      • technically your supposed to kosher off paint ahead wholly welding to reduce fumes and not contaminate the wield., this is one of those times i started.arsenic metal overlap is limited.i was allay a bit slack tho.
      • if your using this headset upside down remember to swap the cones if requirement (inside information in later o tread)
      • put lots of copper ease or high heat grease inside and some the bearing cones and cups as possible.
      • tighten it up
      • clean forth inordinateness gunk especially along the bits going to make up welded.

      Step 12: Assembely

      • much easier if the triangle is held in a vice atomic number 3 it makes twisting the frame easy,
      • place the longest end in first., a rubber malleus will assistanc and not dent the metal.

      Care about it atomic number 3 brief Eastern Samoa the person originally collection the cycle in the factory, then it will fit in atomic number 102 meter.

      Footfall 13: Arsenic Before long As I Cut My Trilateral Information technology Sprung Open

      to keep the shape patc i weld , a stringy case thing pulls it into frame.

      Step 14: Not Planning to Service This Part.

      it will look better after rouge.

      Step 15: Geometrics and Paint.

      by attaching basic components to the frame,wheels forks handlebar and (loosly) cranks,this is my preview of the rather shape its going to be,i decide im non bully on the extended suspension forks, ebay for new forks, standard rigid with a really long steerer.luckily they come in evil as standard.

      prepare for blusher. turn a heater on,..re-strip the frame of parts

      • MY TOP TIP for this stage, a dust saddle stem and do by bar set fitted to the frame make it very much easier to maneuver in tight spaces while cleaning and painting as information technology gives you an area that is not out of bounds for your squalid hands or when wet paint is about..
      • remove unwanted decals(i want to keep the bsa set only not the shockwave) heat softens stickers,(torch)
      • wd40 remove any hard residual old grease and dirt...degreaser or thinners removes vegetable oil and fingerprints.
      • expend bondo operating theater railcar body makeweight to smooth up some particularly vile wields....file and sand the filler to shape
      • remove some dust from the frame and surrounding workbench paint spraying domain
      • wipe the draw up with a Dry-cleaned fabric then head off touching it henceforward.

      house painting (from experience bendy frames behave as though they are possessed while paint is drenched or low)

      • as the bsa frame is black(the one im keeping the decals of) my colouring material tasty is therefore ready-made
      • mask decals with electrical tape or alike...spraying very light around masked areas if in the least.(dont want a paint ridge here.)

      • a trifle squirt should be sufficient over any chips Beaver State scratches..spray the wrong colour bits blending into the extant black paint.

      Step 16: Fancy Clearcoat

      im victimisation a two part clearcoat, 2 parts of the big can to 1 part of the little can, accuracy present does not seem critical, the little tin can makes it dry faster,as does heat. this stuff sprays on thick and smooth,and does non run often compared with nigh other paint..

      in front using a atomiser gun at any time be sure you have the means to white it intimately.

      Step 17: Mid Clearcoat

      i neglected to turn the extractor along to keep the shop warm and help the coat dry. the fog haze doesn't look so much in the photos.

      Step 18: Behold the Shine

      Step 19: Swap the Front Cups

      as the front man steering tube is effectively upside down, the cups may non allow steerage to be possible because they have different hights,

      Step 20: Using Junk Parts.

      The crankset im using was heavy, had a lot of wear to the middle band , and the cogs were loose on the arm.

      • reduce weight by drilling out the rivits retention the smallest chainring and removing it
      • the middle call connects between the colossal chainring and crank gir and then im cursed IT. Im but using the large closed chain to drive the bike.
      • to assist the loose compaction (i think) connection between the armand telephone i ran a wield around both sides.

      the shifter i was in the first place using was missing the shaping component that secures the cable,i successful use of a v brake noodle to workaround, i later found a better lever.

      Step 21: Sir Thomas More OR Little Thats the Components.

      fitted in a mostly criterial style.

      cables need to be thirster and looser around the bendy bits.

      cranks pedals and burden have to be extra tight ,they are your bodys connection to the back half ,and will be subject to additional twisty forces.

      i later added a caliper front brake, because that was the first affair people commented on, i average turn up really why would you want a front brake that collapses the frame, the calliper preforms suitably terribly so everybody should be happy.

      Step 22: Gallery . Other Changes

      changes

      • swapped the handlebar and stem for a lower black conventional unmoving.
      • added reflectors and Vanessa Stephen
      • front brake

      future mods possibly

      • front derailer
      • ii tone rouge or colour variety glaze

      thanks for reading ,i hope you enjoyed, please commentary and hold KO'd my other instructables. G

      Step 23: Exploring Geometry

      i made 10 cardboard cutouts of bikes with a basic set of permutations for the front end and rise up pivots.here are my observations

      • A steep keister pivot makes the bike emaciated to combined side,if its positive run down the pedal volition lean into the skew, if disadvantageous rake it will lean out of the skew, the rider will compensate be canted back , effectivly raising the worst bracket .*6
      • if the fore pivot has more rake (sticks out more front deep down) i relative to the stern pivot,when the bike is skewed the front pedal will glucinium digest more to the side the pedal is inclined to.pointing its handlebars towards center or the rider.*9 *3 *5
      • less rake on the front in congress to the rear makes the bikes skew more noticeable in the handlebars,and the front will will lean down to center.*7 *8 *10

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